Coffee may be the buzz drink these days – but tea houses continue to spring up around Brisbane.
Tisane is a stylish new FortitudeValley café that serves a selection of 20 different teas, specially sourced from Ceylon. It’s designed to capture a boutique hotel feel, and aims to be a comfortable dining option for men, women and families.
The menu covers traditional high teas (two and three tier trays), the ploughman’s lunch, home-made pies, curries, cake and sandwiches. There is an in-house pastry chef and everything is baked fresh.
TISANE is a lovely word. Its strict meaning is a tea-like infusion of fresh or dried flowers or leaves, but it also conjures up delicate china cups in elegant drawing rooms.
A new tea shop in FortitudeValley, tucked away in the quieter end of Doggett St, is bringing a postmodern touch to the whole concept.
The interior offers pared-back dark wood and alcoves upholstered in fashionable browns and caramels, but the plate glass windows and table placement keep it light and uncluttered. It seats 120 and has alcoves ideal for a cosy tucked-away one-on-one chat.
It's a tea room, so tea is what you expect, but not just delicate infusions of gunpowder green, Japanese Sencha and Earl Grey. These are here, of course, but so are the classic black teas, including one called Campion Single Estate which, according to the description, is a connoisseur's delight with hints of malt and a reddish glow (all teas $5.50 a pot, enough for one).
It is the perfect accompaniment to that late-afternoon slice of cake ($5-$8), especially the date and ginger, dense, moist and one of the best I've tasted. The ricotta and rose cheesecake won over a friend who hates the idea of cheesecake.
The genuine tisanes include lemongrass, peppermint, dandelion and chicory. For a challenge to your palate, you can try an unprocessed white Chinese tea (pale, aromatic and fresh), or a real head-spinner which combines eight herbs including licorice, lemongrass, rose petals and red clover. Both $6.90 for a pot for one.
There's Lavazza coffee, Lindt hot chocolate and a pleasing little wine list, including a non-vintage Billecart Salmon, one of my favourites, at $18 a glass or $98 a bottle. The cocktails comprise more sedate traditional drinks such as Pimms No.1 Cup, Bellini (French bubbles with peach nectar) and Kir Royale (more French bubbles with cassis, the one you drink on the Left Bank in Paris). These cost a moderate $9.50 each.
You could just sit in Tisane all day with cocktails, tea and cake, but there are also complete collations on tiered stands available. The Prince of Wales breakfast, for example, features Bircher muesli with stewed fruit and yoghurt, waffles with passionfruit curd and cream, English teacake, and tea or coffee of your choice ($20).
The Windsor version omits the fruit and yoghurt and presents a real apres-hunt collation of beef ragu with sourdough toast, English tea cake and tea or coffee, for $16.
The menu also lists house-made baked beans on toast ($10.90), bacon and eggs your way with toast ($12.50) or toasted fruit brioche with lemon curd and ricotta ($6.50).
Later in the morning, you can have a selection of sandwiches, asparagus and potato tart, plus scones with clotted cream, a selection of cakes, and a glass of French bubbles or squeezed orange juice plus tea or coffee – a special treat for your mother or best friend for $32.50.
But wait, there's more! A simple cream tea (all right, they call it Devonshire) is $13.50, but the one I like is the Junior Tea – ham or Vegemite sandwiches, a cup cake, some rocky road and flavoured milk at $11.50 to keep the ankle-biters quiet.
Speaking of sandwiches, it's a pleasant change to find delicate, thin slices of fresh bread with the crusts off. I had an Earl of Sandwich tea with exquisite fingers of white bread and a selection of four delicious fillings, a little pot of the tea of my choice (in this case a Campion lemon tea) and it was $16.50 well spent.
The Fishermans Lunch was elegant, a delicious little tart lined with potato, dill and creme fraiche laced with herbs, topped with rolls of smoked salmon and crisp greens ($16.50).
The Pieman's Lunch cost $2 more, and was a rich veal, mushroom and leek stew in its own white pie dish, with a creamy mash and topped with a leaf of pastry.
Other colonial offerings are an Indian chicken curry with rice ($18.50), an asparagus and sweet potato frittata with onion jam and goats cheese ($13.50), and a vegetarian salad of fire-roasted Mediterranean vegetables cheered up with pine nuts, currants, basil and some crunchy rocket ($12.50).
Tisane is not the place I would pop into every day – the prices are too high for my budget. But for a special occasion, lunch and morning tea here are a real treat. I couldn't think of a nicer place to take that special person.
TISANE TEA ROOM Address: Shop 4, 9 Doggett St, FortitudeValley Phone: 3254 4001 Hours: 8am-5pm, seven days Liquor status: fully licensed, no BYO Prices: most under $20, cakes about $7, Lavazza coffee from $3.60, tisanes $5.50 a pot Owners: Barry and Lorraine Samson Chef: Renee Page Parking: this is the Valley – good luck! Wheelchair access: yes Other: all credit cards except Diners; table service; vegetarian and limited gluten-free food; closed public holidays; airconditioning; shared toilets; noise level low
THE SCORE Food: 18 Service: 11 Ambience: 17 Value for money: 12 About the score: 0-5 don't bother; 6-9 needs serious improvement; 10-12 reasonable; 13-14 good; 15-17 very good; 18-19 exceptional; 20 perfection
Review
Alison, I took your advise and visited the Tisane Tea Room and I thank you for enticing me, it was wonderful, food was great, no it was fabulous. But you had service marked at 11 which worried me, but I can tell you during the 4 hours that we where there we had extraordinary service, highly attentive yet at all the right times.